For utterly understandable reasons, the main attraction in the oh little town of Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity, built right over the birthplace of You Know Who. That’s the only reason people visit. You may wonder, as I did, is there any other reason to go there, and thus is it worth the trip?
Like many things in that part of the world labeled “The Holy Land”, the phrase “It is believed” is used often. Let’s get the main site out of the way. “It is believed” that the Church of the Nativity is the spot where Jesus was born, if you suspend disbelief that anyone was keeping track of locations back then. The church is old, dark, and a bit dreary, yet will fit your esthetics.
The cave where “it is believed” that Jesus was born (didn’t know it was a cave, did you?) is underneath the church, and there can be a long line to go down (don’t go on a weekend). Once subterranean, you’ll see the crowds huddled around a silver star in the floor that is set, incomprehensively, inside what looks like a fireplace type of niche, meaning people have to get on their hands and knees to touch it.
This may be as close as you get to what “is believed” to be the birthplace
Righty-ho then, that’s it. You’ve seen where it all began, for Christ’s sake. If you came from a tour bus, they might herd you back aboard now and you’re off. But if you’re on your own, is there anything else?
Bethlehem, let’s be clear, is in the Palestine Territories. It’s not in Israel, so if you’re visiting here from there, you need to pass through the Israeli-built security wall and cross over into Palestine. It’s rather easily done on a day-trip from Jerusalem, since it’s only about 10 kilometers (6 miles) away. So once you’re here in B-town, tarry a bit, because Bethlehem is a seriously nice place, and because nothing else will be so crowded as that church.
You’ll get the feeling of Palestine in Bethlehem
Bethlehem is a long, stretched-out, little settlement, mostly running along one central street. It’s hard to get lost. Start right next to the Nativity with St. Catherine’s Church, a modern (1881) Franciscan construction, but not all so special. The Mosque of St. Omar is across the square, but that’s for Muslims only. Instead, keep walking down the road to the Milk Grotto, a cave/chapel where “it is believed” that the holy family hid before their flight into Egypt. Mary spilled a few drops of her milk there, which naturally turned the entire place white. There’s a subterranean part and an aboveground part and they are both quite peaceful.
Next to the Milk Grotto is a quite nice shop selling carvings made from olive tree wood. The prices are labeled in American dollars but the staff is quick to tell you not to worry about them; that’s just for the tour bus crowds, not for a sophisticate like you. Bargain, you’ll get a decent price. The shop’s best feature is one can climb the outside stairways all the way up three stories to the roof and get a stellar view of the town.
The view over Bethlehem
The open area in front of the Nativity is called Manger Square. Buses park, but also local taxi drivers hang out. They can be pushy, but there are a few things to see outside of town for which you’ll need wheels, so consider hiring one for a time. Some possibilities:
Herodium – King Herod’s artificial mountain and pleasure complex, and his recently-discovered tomb. This is totally worth seeing.
Rachel’s tomb — Wife of Jacob, of Bible fame. Back near the checkpoint and almost surrounded by the wall. Accessibility varies.
Shepard’s Fields — Where “it is believed” that those famous shepherds “watched their flocks by night” and were informed by the heavenly host that some kid was just born. It’s just a field. I don’t know what you’re supposed to do there.
Mar Saba Monastery — Amazingly beautiful architecture and a spectacular sight. Great even from the outside, which if you’re female, is as close as you’ll get.
There’s much more around, plus you could strike out to Jericho or Hebron as well within your day trip. Nothing is too far away. But let’s go back to Bethlehem.
After you’re done with Manger Square, walk the other way (to the west of the main drag), and you’ll find yourself in the old city. For some tourists, this is the only brush with Palestine on the trip, so check it. The streets of the city are lively and bustling and there are shops all over. Bethlehem is a far better place to buy any trinkets or souvenirs than Israel, as the prices are lower and the shop owners usually friendlier. People are just glad you came.
Food is no problem. Just opposite Manger Square, at another square (whose name I can’t identify), we sat and had a snack of some grilled meat, hummus, and Taybeh beer, the only beer (the café owner proudly declared) brewed in Palestine. Cafes are all around and food stands are even more plentiful throughout town.
You may as well eat while you’re here
Soon you’ll hit the main market, as you should, and you’ll poke around as we did. We bought a half-kilo of figs here, then went back and bought another half from a grandmother type who was utterly taken by my wife. There’s a coffee house on the second floor where you can catch a view of everything. We spent quite a bit more time just simply hanging out in this very relaxed and friendly town.
I’ve never run across anyone else writing about how Bethlehem is a nice little town, a place to enjoy and explore. Traveling is so very often about specific sights, rather understandable at first, but it’s helpful if they’re located in a place you want to walk around and enjoy just for itself, and Bethlehem is one of those places. Please go see the town as well as the places where “it is believed” things happened.
How to get to Bethlehem:
Near everyone daytrips from Jerusalem, quite easy. Find the bus station across from the Damascus Gate in the old town. There are two bus stations, but you’ll figure it out, because the wrong one simply has no buses to Bethlehem. Absolutely bring your passport. Jump on bus #21, which leaves frequently and will take you to a point just outside the center of Bethlehem. Buses often don’t have numbers displayed, but just ask.
The trip will take a bit under a half-hour for such a short distance, mainly because you’re going through one hell of a checkpoint. The separation wall may rattle you. It’s ominous, about three meters high. As a tourist, you can stay on the bus. Soldiers may come through checking passports or they may not. Palestinians, however, must leave the bus and be checked separately. Now’s a good time to think about what kind of privilege your passport gives you.
Off the bus at Bethlehem, taxi drivers will offer to take you into town, but it’s just a 1 km walk (0.6 mile). You can do it. Just keep walking in the same direction the bus was going.
There are minibuses from Jerusalem that only run to the checkpoint, who let you off there and you walk through and then you’re on your own. If this happens, just grab a taxi (there will probably be some) on the other side. Or just walk–it’s only about 3 km.
To return to Jerusalem, go back to where you were let off of the bus and wait, on the same side of the road. Then ask every bus that stops if they’re going to Jerusalem.
The wall separating Israel and Palestine
FAQ: But wait, is Bethlehem safe? Yes, it’s safe, you blockhead. If there’s a new intifada or something going on, then by all means reconsider, but if you haven’t heard of any recent and major troubles, there are none.
